Chevrolet
LT1
Příspěvky od večera 30. dubna 2010 až do večera 3. května 2010
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28. 03. 05. 2010 - 22:39
Ja mam camaro od ty doby co mi ho prodal Ray a taky nic vaznejsiho :-) ale jestli mas to auto rad tak donej stejne vyteces :-) jinak kdybys chtel misto toho manualu automat tak to muzem vymenit :-DChevy Camaro 1995 Z28 5,7 V8 LT1 -=- Lepsi tlacit Chevy nez ridit FORD
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27. Re: Motor LT1 03. 05. 2010 - 20:19
ray (26): Mám Camaro necelej rok a s optisparkem zatím žádnej problém, je ještě původní z fabriky, najeto mám 50 tisíc mil. Tu WS6 máš v manuálu nebo automat? -
26. Re: Motor LT1 03. 05. 2010 - 20:02
adam7c3 (1): mel jsem LT1 v Z28 r.v. 95 a naprosto OK,nevim o nicem co by melo byt spatne ,posledni 4 roky mam LT1 i v TransAm WS6 RamAir a musim rict ze podle me je ten motor v poho,jednoduchej,nemusel jsem jeste krom svicek a remene a filtru nic menit a porad super,vse za par kacek a krasnej zvuk,samozrejme LS1 by byla lepsi vykonove,ale zatim jsem spokojenej,mam k nemu i PC od HyperTech pro ruzne upravy jednotky,tak ze se snim da pohrat a upravit dle toho na co ho potrebujes,jestli na sprint,max.rychlost,nebo ekonomickou jizdu,tak ze urcite bych se toho nebal a doporucuji .Fuck The Czech Government !!! -------- TransAm RamAir,Magnum SRT8,Navigator Ultimate,Corvette C6
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25. Re: Motor LT1 03. 05. 2010 - 20:00
taky to asi nebude taková trága, jen se toho prostě tolik nebát a jít do toho.
TJ, kup toto a je to
http://tipcar.cz/chevrolet/chevrolet-camaro-z28-5.7i---6rychlostni-cz-10822900.html
This world is sick...
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24. Re: Motor LT1 03. 05. 2010 - 16:44
Bob Ash (23): S tím od MSD mají na fórech dost špatný zkušenosti, při jeho instalaci ho musíš ještě doštelovat a já nevím co, navíc stoji o $250 víc než od ACDelco/Delphi bez záruky že vydrží déle. -
23. Re: Motor LT1 03. 05. 2010 - 16:13
xjohny (22): Možná bych koupil spíš třeba MSD, mám pocit že by to mohli mít vychytanější.
A motor prostě nemejt :)Ceterum censeo ruSSiam delendam esse.
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22. Re: Motor LT1 03. 05. 2010 - 16:09
tj-max (21): Tohle jsi určitě viděl: http://www.ls1lt1.com/forum/showthread.php?t=78
Suma sumárum - pro jistotu nemýt motor wapkou, když se o auto slušně staráš optispark vydrží i přes 140tis km. Pokud koupíš auto, kde to zlobí, prostě pořádně zainvestuješ, vyměníš za nový origo (ACDelco) díly a měl bys mít klid, dokud to auto neprodáš :)"i personaly hate flowmasters. EVERYONE and there grandma has them around here..."
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21. Re: Motor LT1 03. 05. 2010 - 15:42
baronet74 (19):i do toleda se musí sypat :((
co si ty myslíš o optisparku? -
20. Re: Motor LT1 03. 05. 2010 - 14:39
baronet74 (19):Hyň sa ukáže. V inzerci je krásnej kousek trojky v manuálu za 99k. -
19. Re: Motor LT1 03. 05. 2010 - 14:07
xjohny (18):nekoupí všechny ameriky mají nějaký MUCHY a musí se do nich SYPAT jako všechny auta,vyjímka je jen TOLEDÓÓÓ chrochtaChrysler LHS 96 ,Chevy G20 V8 5,7 92,JAG XJ6 4,2 82 a vymenim G20 za dodge RAM VAN r.v 91-93
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18. Re: Motor LT1 03. 05. 2010 - 11:56
Lord Iffy (17): Ne, než to stihne, tak mu praskne hlava (ta na krku) pod informačním přetlakem :)))"i personaly hate flowmasters. EVERYONE and there grandma has them around here..."
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17. Re: Motor LT1 01. 05. 2010 - 02:00
tj-max (15): ty a koupis si nekdy nejakou ameriku?:)))"If it rolls, floats, fu.ks, or flys you've got problems."
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16. Re: Motor LT1 30. 04. 2010 - 21:55
tj-max (15): V tom případě jdi do 3rd genu, práce je na tom snažší, už jen kvůli přístupu k motoru a na klasickým small blocku není fakt co zkazit. -
15. Re: Motor LT1 30. 04. 2010 - 21:50
adam7c3 (13): já právě nechci sypat moc a (ted mě kdyžtak opravte) na to by měla být ta trojka v pohodě. tam není nic moc na rozbití, žádnou mouchu už z výroby (jako OS) to nemá, tzn sypání by mělo být podmíněno pouze (při koupi udržovanýho exempláře) stářím jednotlivých komponent - navíc je to principielně tak jednoduchý, že by to měla umět servisovat (jak vždy píše bobeš) i vožralá opice po lobotomii. :)))
nedělám si iluze, že bych si na tom dělal nějakej servis sám - nemám kde a ani čím a už vůbec nevím jak na to :))) -- jsem pohodlnej a tak bych rád něco, co funguje, abych nemusel pořád do servisu (na to není hlavně čas). - je mi jasný, že je to starší auto, tzn sem tam něco revitlizovat je v pohodě (to bych musel u všech staršího pár let), ale naložit si na ramena už z továrny "nepovedenej" OS, na to nevím, jestli mám koule :))) -
14. 30. 04. 2010 - 21:44
GM had an idea, "Let’s evolve the old distributor type ignition and bring the electrics of our cars into the 29th Century." ‘Great’ we all said because in theory, the Opti-Spark design is good. In fact, high-resolution engine speed sensing leads to extremely accurate ignition timing was a rare occurrence even in expensive sports cars back in 1992. In practice however, quite a few things are problematic with GM's execution of the Opti-Spark distributor.
This evolutionary ignition component was a bridge between traditional distributors and the DIS-type, coil-on-plug systems that we know and love today and should be so much better but unfortunately, LT1 owners have had long-term reliability problems with the Opti-Spark, and even though it has been around for 17 years now, many enthusiasts are still in the dark when it comes to identifying, troubleshooting, or upgrading them.
The Dreaded Opti.
First and foremost, there are the typical wear, heat, and moisture problems associated with a distributor cap and rotor. Since most Chevrolet V8 engines featured an easily accessible rear-mounted distributor, it is not a big deal to change the cap and rotor every 50,000 miles (or sooner in high performance applications). Plus, the availability of standard-style cap and rotor assemblies makes them extremely cheap. These facts do NOT hold true for engines with the Opti-Spark distributor.
From an accessibility standpoint, both the water pump and the crank pulley need to be removed in order to gain access to a failed Opti-Spark distributor. On Camaros and Firebirds in particular, this is a long and expensive job.
From a reliability standpoint, the environment at the front of the engine is notoriously harsh for things like heat, water, and debris, but the Opti-Spark distributor is not even sealed on 1992-1994 models! Later versions of the Opti-Spark incorporate a seal and venting provision, but are by no means free of problems.
MSD unit in place.
A friend of mine wanted a ’92 - 94 shape Camaro and when she was looking for the right car she sensibly asked, "What should I be looking for on these Chevy LT1’s?" I explained that as long as the engine was quiet, the body work was clean then the only problem to be aware of was the Opti-Spark and to try and get a car that had less than 20,000 miles on the Opti unit. She found one that had just had a new unit fitted and went along to see it. She fell in love with it and bought it there and then. 400 miles later the car became difficult to start. Opti - troubles and then it failed as they always do. £800 (quite reasonable) later and a new unit from the States the car was back on the road.
From a cost standpoint, the Opti-Spark units can retail for well over $400, depending on model year. Dealers quote over £1500 (parts and labour) to replace this item!
To add insult to injury, the Opti-Spark distributor uses a "Correct-a-Cap" design that places the spark plug wire terminals on the proper side of the engine for easy spark plug wire routing. To do this, the terminal traces moulded into the distributor cap must come extremely close to one another, which leads to premature arc-over in high-load applications and applications using constant high-voltage ignitions. Clearly a bad design.
But not all is defective on the Opti-Spark distributor. Inherently, the optical sensors are fairly robust. For most applications, the sensors are not the cause of most problems. To prove this fact, Mitsubishi manufactures the Opti-Spark sensors, and variations on these same sensors can be found on most late model Mitsubishi and Nissan applications. Reliability problems with the optical sensors on the Nissan and Mitsubishi vehicles are simply not present in anywhere near the same quantity as the LT1 and L99 engines. This would suggest that the main problems with the Opti-Spark distributor are not the sensors, but the cap and rotor.
Two engines here show to bad placing of the unit
The best way of minimising problems is make sure that if you buy a car with this unit fitted make sure that you know that the car is fitted with a sealed and VENTED type such as an MSD. If not the answer is clear, don’t touch it with a stick unless you have a spare unit in the back of the garage and about 80 hours of spare time. If you have to buy a unit always look to import the unit as UK prices (even with poor exchange rates) are a rip off.
The Opti-Spark first appeared on the 1992 Corvette and then progressed to the fourth-generation F-body in 1993. The same ignition is also found in the full-size B-body cars when they switched to LT1 power for the 1994 model year. During the Opti-Spark's reign there were three distinct versions of the distributor, but they all functioned in the same manner. The differences were found in the drive mechanism along with the design of the housing and vent system.
The Opti-Spark ignition system breaks tradition in a number of unique ways beyond its optical triggers as you can see below.
The combination of two systems in one. A high-resolution engine timing system and a low-energy secondary distribution network.
The ability for the ECM to have total control over the ignition timing through an angle-based spark advance function along with the ancillary control of altering the cranking start-up ignition timing based on the ambient air temperature.
This one had an attempt to seal it but it still failed.
Robust reductions in spark scatter during instantaneous transient acceleration in comparison with time-based systems.
The ability to benefit from a more aggressive timing curve without entering the ‘spark knock’ zone.
A large cap design with a widened rotor tip, allowing for all of the secondary voltage to be delivered radically without employing a large rotor tip clearance. This reduction in rotor tip clearance also pays dividends in decreased radio frequency interference generation.
Individual cylinder timing and knock retard capabilities.
Accurate drive positioning directly from the front of the camshaft.
No need for mechanical timing adjustment.
But all this is pointless when the unit can be so unreliable.
LT1 owners have dealt with the Opti-Spark distributor for many years now, but there is still much confusion regarding the causes and symptoms of a failing unit. Tapping into the PCM with a scan tool is a good way to start, but sometimes no codes will be set. Before diving into the Opti-Spark, be sure to verify that your grounds are good and the coil and wires are not the source of the problem, as they are much easier to change.
Symptoms:
* Car suddenly dies and won't restart
* Starts but immediately dies
* Extended cranking to start
* Rough idle
* Sputtering
* Backfiring
* Trouble reaching higher rpm
* Black smoke from exhaust
* Poor performance with car warmed up
* Weak plug wire spark
* Codes 16, 36, and 42 may be set
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13. Re: Motor LT1 30. 04. 2010 - 21:40
tj-max (11): Originální OptiSpark od Delphi tě vyjde na $250 + nějakejch 40-50 za poštovný, za výměnu asi dáš nějaký "palacký", pokud to nebudeš měnit sám. Je to holt 15 let starý sportovní auto, takže do toho budeš sypat tak jako tak. -
12. Re: Motor LT1 30. 04. 2010 - 21:39
tj-max (11):Tak jest pravdou že čtyřka moc američna nepobrala ale úplně špatně zase nevypadá...
Nevím... na tvém místě bych asi volil tu trojku. -
11. Re: Motor LT1 30. 04. 2010 - 21:25
Jířa (10):prej to vypadá hnusně - jako nějakej japonec :)) má trochu pravdu, už to moc americký rysy nemá, ale mně se to líbí i tak - obvzláště s tím manuálem :)) ale toho OS bych se bál - viz příspěvek 7. je to pěkně drahá sranda :( -
10. Re: Motor LT1 30. 04. 2010 - 21:11
tj-max (9):Co má přítelkyně proti? -
9. Re: Motor LT1 30. 04. 2010 - 21:06
Bob Ash (7):no já jsem to pochopil tak, že tahle mrška umí vyexovat i několikrát ročně?
proto by mě zajímaly zkušenosti a názor marcuse - jestli je to jak píše adam7c3 - když nebudu jezdit na wapku a budu mít ok pumpu, že budu v pohodě.
btw.:tohle zrovna není za pár kaček a ta výměna je prej fakt vopruz, tzn u mechanika taky vytlačíš dost "palackejch" za práci. kdyby to bylo o tom, vyměnit a je klid, tak by to bylo fajn, ale z těch för sem pochopil, že to nic nezaručuje.
jinak to zelený LT1 manuál už je za 145K, jediný, co mě od něj odrzauje (kromě přítelkyně :)) je právě ten OS - nemám chuť ani finance na troublemaking car :)) -
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